Here at Sea to Summit, we believe that gear should be reliable, functional and made to last. We use the best available materials and thoughtfully put them together so that they will serve you for years and years of adventure.
However, even the best-made gear will fall apart if it isn’t properly taken care of. Today, I want to concentrate on what you can do to keep your gear working as well as possible for as long as possible.
Dry Bags/Stuff Sacks: Washing removes fine-grain sand from dry bags/stuff sacks. lf left in the fabric, the sand acts like sandpaper between the fibers. Washing prevents oily stains from soaking through face fabrics and causing coatings to delaminate. And clean bags/sacks are less likely to attract rodents and other critters that will eat holes in them. Click here for washing tips.
Liners: Clean liners smell better. Simple, right? They also wick moisture better if you keep them free of body oils and dirt. Click here for washing tips.
Towels: Clean towels smell better, too. So will you when you use them. Click here for washing tips.
Sleeping Bags: If you use a liner, you won’t have to wash your sleeping bag very often. When you do wash it, there are some important guidelines you should adhere to which you can find HERE.
When your bag is clean, see ‘store it dry’ below
Keep it out of harm’s way
Anything with a coating should be kept as far away from solvents as possible. DEET from bug spray will destroy polyurethane coatings, seam tape, elasticized drawcords and some other hardware. Gasoline/mineral oil will delaminate coatings and remove water-repellent finishes. Alcohol (the kind found in spray sunscreen and in iodine water treatments) is also bad for coatings and seam tape. Even solvent-based permanent markers can cause fabrics to delaminate. (It is best to write on the black Hypalon strip of a dry sack with a white or silver marker.) Bleach will cause PU coatings to peel off and pliable fabrics to go crunchy.
The sun’s ultraviolet light weakens fabrics: the lighter the fabric, the more pronounced the effect. Keeping your gear out of the sunlight whenever possible will make it last longer. Give some thought to this when stowing dry sacks on your kayak or raft and when (and where) you pitch your Escapist Tarp.
Store it dry
If you put the gear away when it is wet or even slightly damp, it will develop mold and mildew. This not only makes for smelly equipment, it also weakens seams and fabrics. Hang your gear up to dry before stowing it – and if you’ve washed a sleeping bag, dry it until you are sure that there’s no more dampness deep inside the down (then store it in a dry place in an uncompressed state).
Sleeping mats and pillows should be stored unrolled with the valve(s) open. If you store a sleeping mat or pillow rolled tightly with the valve closed, any internal condensation may damage the laminate/bladder material.
You don’t like sand in your teeth, and neither do the zippers on your gear. If you camp in desert/beach conditions, clean the teeth of your shelter/sleeping bag (a toothbrush is good for this), then spray them with pure (food grade) silicone spray.
Spare parts & repairs
Need a cord lock for your stuff sack? A patch for your pack cover? A spring clip for your Pocket Trowel? Some other item? Let us know via this blog – we keep an extensive stock of spare parts to keep your gear working.
Don’t throw away that dry sack or pack cover just because that pesky rodent at your last campsite chewed a hole in it. With our tips about repairing tears and holes in coated fabrics, your gear can see you through many more trips.
Know the limitations of the materials
Certain fabrics have – for instance – a higher tear strength/abrasion resistance than others. Caring for your gear also involves being aware of the kinds of environment the product or material was designed for and using it appropriately. If you are unsure – Ask Baz.